Some cooks learned their skills from the pages of Julia, some from Jacques, but I developed my skills and penchant for foods from every corner of the globe via Cuisinart’s (defunct) Pleasures of Cooking magazine. I’m sitting here with my little 5 1/2″ x 8 1/2″, slightly grimy issue from November 1978 ($2.00), stunned with the realization that I have been simmering this gorgeous soup recipe for now going into a thirty first year. The magazine eventually progressed to a larger size, but remained true to the original; a beautifully photographed magazine completely dedicated to fine cooking without the intrusion of advertisements. If I was ever forced to choose only one item from my still-growing collection of cookbooks and magazines, my stack of The Pleasures of Cooking would make the cut; they’ve moved with me more times than I care to think about and the recipes stand the test of time.
A version of this hearty soup (I’ve made very minor modifications to accomodate changes in product and my taste) appears in an article written by that grand signora of Italian cooking, Marcella Hazan entitled simply, Seven Italian Soups, and I’ve prepared them all with gratifying, soul-warming results. But this one is the soup I return to again and again as it was the first recipe that turned me on to the magical, meaty, earthen wiles of porcini. In the words of Marcella , “No lover of soups can remain indifferent to chickpeas and spinach combined with the seductive aroma and flavor of dried boletus mushrooms”. I can attest to those words, thirty one years later. The ingredients are easy to keep on hand; please give this one a try; a most beautiful soup.
Zuppa di Ceci, Spinaci e Porcini (Chick Pea, Spinach and Porcini Soup)
Serves 4
Adapted from Marcella Hazan via Heidi Robb
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
3 cups lukewarm water
1 16 ounce can chick peas, drained and rinsed
1 10 ounce package frozen whole-leaf spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
Salt
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped yellow onion
1 plump clove of garlic miced
1 15 ounce can diced tomatoes in juices ( I like Muir Glen)
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan
Soak the porcini in the lukewarm water for at least 30 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out of the water without stirring and rinse well in cold water. Rough-chop them and set aside.
Strain the soaking water through a paper towel set into a strainer; set aside.
*Skin the chickpeas. Squeeze the chickpeas one at a time between your thumb and first finger; I find holding the chickpea by the rounder base and squeezing the skin up towards the pointed sprout end works best for me. Discard the skins.
Rough-chop the spinach and set aside.
Put the butter, olive oil, onion, garlic along with a pinch of salt into your soup pot. Turn the heat to medium. When the onion has turned a light golden color, add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring for a minute. Add the tomatoes and their juices, cooking, stirring for another minute. Add the spinach, another pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper, and stir, cooking for another couple of minutes. Add the chickpeas, stir and cook a few minutes until everything is combined and warmed throughout. Add the mushroom water; taste and add a little more salt if needed; not too much as you can always add more later.
Turn the heat down to very low, cover the pot, and cook for one hour. The soup will be very thick and dense; you can add a little more warm water if desired.
Off the heat, mix in the grated cheese and allow to sit a few moments before serving.
* Please don’t roll your eyes at me – just do it! The skinning contributes to a nicer look and mouthfeel to the finished dish. It only takes a few minutes and is a nice way to keep your mind on a new kitchen task and off of facebook!
14 Comments
Oh my, this sounds lovely and something I will be trying very soon – we seem to be rather in tune when it comes to soup and the like.
I have made a spinach and ceci soup a couple of times but never thought of giving it depth and flavour with porcini.
Yes,I will peel them, I know it makes a difference and I will regret it if I don’t.
Oh by the way,I made a apple tart inspired by you and David tanis it was tip top.
Sounds absolutely delicious – perfect for the single digit weather that we’re having here in Cleveland.
This sounds good, we have been doing a lot of veggie soups … the weather just calls for them :)
ohh wow. my heart (and stomach) swooned over this soup! it is just lovely, and it made me warmer (in my 18 degree weather) just looking at it.
hope you had a great holiday!
really lovely. i’m sitting in a cold apt. and it’s about 13 degrees outside and i’m looking at this post… thanks! i want this.
really lovely. i’m sitting in a cold apt. and it’s about 13 degrees outside and i’m looking at this post… thanks! i want this.
Rachel: You make my soup, I’ll make yours! Glad your tart was a pleaser.
Melange:Thanks – make this cold go away!
Mom:See above comment to Melange – stat!
Heather:Wow, I made you swwon – thanks!
WRNF:Yes, you want this…and some extra blankets. brrrr.
i’m making this one soon
sounds excellent
i’m leaving out the butter though
damnit
Nice looking soup. I like the skinned chick peas
LOVELY :) We most definitely are going to try this!
Thank you*
Those were great little cookbooks. I think I have one of them in my collection, somewhere. I have always heard great things about them.
This soup looks marvelous.
this looks hearty and healthy. in fact, if you sub the porcini’s for brown mushrooms, this could be a recession-proof meal. of course the porcini’s would taste better and bring a deeper flavor to the soup…
Ooooh. This soup looks delicious!
I think I know what we will be eating for the next few days!
….and if you must know, I did *not* roll my eyes at skinning the garbanzos.
I get it. I really do, and I can always Facebook later…
Heidi
Like you I loved these magazines and was so sorry when they folded. I am actually in the process of cleaning out my attic and found I have them all except two. I particularly miss AUGUST 1987 because in that issue I had a letter published about my mother’s trifle and was always rather upset that the magazine disappeared. I think someone was looking at it during a family gathering, and, being so small, it got gathered up and recylced with the newspapers. That is why I am online hunting down a copy! It had a Chinese-style illustration on the cover, if I remember correctly.
Anyway do you happen to have a “slightly grimy” copy of the August 1978 from which you might be able to scan the letter and email to me? Please.
I also notice I dont have a Dec 1978. The next one I have is the first larger issue with no year, just COOKING JANUARY/FEBRUARY followed by the first PLEASURES OF COOKING Vol 1 No 12
Cheers, Marie B.